Q: I'm using your Predator vanes and I have a problem with them staying on my arrows.
The rule of thumb for our Predator vanes is longer clamp time and longer cure time. Use a fresh CA adhesive, use very little, press onto the shaft as if the vane were a suction cup. Let 'er sit there a few moments - maybe 30 seconds or so. The blade is a bit stiffer which means the edges of the gluing surface are also a little stiffer, hence the need for longer/longer.
Q: Why don't you carry more colors in the Predator series vane?
Color selection is a function of numbers, pure and simple. Every color we make requires an investment in materials, packaging, inventory space, marketing, etc. When you try to balance the costs with the benefits you wind up putting the colors that sell best in the "Yes, let's make that color" column.
Q: Do you make the Fusion vane in a shrink wrap configuration?
We would gladly sell our Fusion vanes to the folks who put vanes onto shrink wrap. If you called or wrote to those folks, maybe they'd jump on the Fusion bandwagon (If they haven't already!)
Q: Of all the different ways to fletch an arrow, which way do you recommend for the 2" fusion Vane? Right or left helical or offset? What works best with broadheads?
Greater accuracy is gained with a stronger helical fletch. Greater distance comes with straight fletching. How you fletch will be decided by what works best for you in the field with the equipment in your hand. Luckily, the 2.1" Fusion is flexible enough to nearly wrap around the arrow shaft. Well, of course that's a bit of an exaggeration, but we do think they're pretty darn adaptable.
Q: Should the vane bases be cleaned?
Why, oh why would you want to add to your workload? Our #1 goal is to make our product the easiest, fastest and best. Taking the time to clean the vane base seems like a lot of work, so no. Don't bother cleaning the vane base. They won't need it.
Q: Will the 3 inch Fusions control broadheads?
How many ways can we say YES!! These puppies were specifically designed for controlling broadhead flight right out of the starting blocks. More surface area, rigid fin and a slightly rough texture equals superb flight. We designed them with a bit lower profile than our 2.1" Fusion (which were also designed to support broadheads) so you won't have any clearance problems during the shot. Their longer base gives you more surface for gluing in a helical or strong offset. They're second to none.
Q: Are these manufactured in the USA?
Despite the designation "Norway Industries" we are not located in that lovely Scandinavian country. On the contrary - we're located in beautiful downtown Norway, Oregon, which was once a thriving metropolis boasting a general store, post office and 49 Holsteins. The cows are still here but we miss being able to pick up our sody-pop at the neighborhood store.
Q: What do you recomend to use as an adhesive for Fusion vanes?
As with Duravanes, a cyanoacrylate (CA or super glue) adhesive works best. In fact, some cement-types will actually do more harm than good. More power to ya if you are successful with something other than our recommendation. But if you're having trouble fletching, the most important things to look for are a clean shaft and very little fresh CA adhesive.
Q: Can the StringTamer be mounted on any bow or only newer models?
The factor that determines compatibility of a StringTamer isn't the age of the bow...it's the availibilty of a stabilizer mounting bushing and its location on the riser. Most all bows are set up to accept a stabilizer, whether mounted on the front or the back of the bow. And as usual, it is wise to measure the distance from the stabilizer hole to the string to make sure our models will fit your bow. Now if your stabilizer bushing points downward, you might be in trouble.
Q: What do you mean by "indefinite shelf life?
If you've ever rummaged around in your garage on the shelf behind the paint cans and discovered some old packages of DURAVANES™, you can depend on being able to still use them. You probably don't remember buying them. That's ok...they'll still work, no matter when.
Q: What size arrow will DURAVANES™ fit?
You name it... We haven't seen anything they WON'T fit. Our favorite example, rather on the extreme end of the spectrum, is one of our 1.8" DURAVANES™ pasted onto a 4mm shaft. On the other end of the spectrum we have heard of a VERY well-tuned bow shooting a 2412 arrow successfully with our 2.3 3-D (low profile) DURAVANE™.
Q: How can DURAVANES™ help the performance of my older equipment?
A 4" DURAVANE™, with its higher profile, will correct nearly any shaft deflection. It won't balance your checkbook, but it does take care of a lot of problems when you use a larger vane.
Q: I'm a competitive archer. How can I get the best string clearance for my bow?
Our new 3-D DURAVANE™ was made for you. It has the lowest profile possible, yet all the qualifications of our standard DURAVANE™: strength, durability, reliability, consistency, silent flight....we could go on and on and on....
Q: I shoot feathers. What advantage do DURAVANES™ have over feathers?
For authenticity, we'll admit that we can't beat feathers. For ENDURANCE and ACCURACY our 3", 4" and 5" profiles win, hands down. All things being equal, testing has proven over and over the advantage to using DURAVANES™. Check 'em out for yourself.
Q: When I am hand fletching my arrows, how far from the nock do I place the vane?
We have seen vanes anywhere from 1/4" to 1-1/4" from the end, that is the gap between the nock and the vane. It seems that the industry standard is about 5/8". Any variation is simply due to the shooters' preference.
Q: Are their special instructions for fletching onto shafts that have been dipped with paint? Will the bond be as strong as on a bare shaft?
If you use a good CA (Cyanoacrylate) adhesive and somehow peel a vane off you will probably find that the dip paint is still part of the vane. We haven't heard of a dip paint that won't work in combination with our vanes and glue, as long as the paint is fully cured and clean. Comparing this bond to a bare shaft bond is a little tricky simply because another variable has been introduced to the situation.